Lionel OO Scale eunit Wiring Diagram

[Jim Cummings]

I got a 3-rail Lionel OO scale engine and tender.  On the tender I cleaned the commutator and brush tubes and adjusted the relay and it works fine.  The engine is another story.  I cleaned its commutator and brush tubes and got the motor running very smoothly.  However, the eunit isn't working.  I can manually move the pawl and get the motor to reverse, but it doesn't work by dropping the power off and on as I would expect.    FULL DISCLOSURE - this is my first attempt at working on an OO gauge eunit.

Since the arm doesn't lift/move to engage the gear at all, I am thinking it has to be an electric issue...or, perhaps there is something I failed to clean!  The eunit reminds me of the old standard gauge manual reversing units.  There's got to be an electrical field(?) created to lift the arm and pull the pawl back which pulls the gear to go from f-n-r; and then the arm just falls until the next power change.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram they can share.  Or, hoping for a 'here's what you gotta do, duh'!!

Thanks in advance.

Jim Cummings

PS I'm new to the forum...

[pjdog350]

Welcome Jim. I had a friend when I lived in Slidell Louisiana. He did double O gauge. But I never paid any attention to what he was doing. Hope someone will help you out here!

[Terry]

I have an e-unit like that in my 228 switcher that's faulty. The windings get hot and don't pass current to lift the pawl. It only works for about 2 minutes then it doesn't work again until the loco has sat for at least 20 minutes.

With 00 the threaded pin in the loco cab completes the circuit for the e-unit field. Make sure that is complete and then put power to the loco. That should energize the field and create a magnet.

If you have a magnet, the pawl should raise. If it doesn't check to see if there is an obstruction and that it hasn't been messed with.

If you can lift the pawl by hand and it sticks to the energized field then it is the pawl linkage, or added weight. Remove the added weight, then clean and oil the linkage. You also should make sure the black disk is not stuck. Clean everything with plastic safe tuner cleaner.

It's common for people to add weight to the drop portion of the pawl to make it drop as it commonly sticks to the magnet. This is a common problem being solved in a poor manner. The pawl becomes magnetic and sticks to the field when the power is off. Then it doesn't drop all the time. You can put a bit of tape on so the electro-magnet's metal does not touch the metal of the pawl. Put the tape on the magnet.

[Jim Cummings]

Okay!  Looks like I had the 'DUH!' moment.

When removing the cab from the chassis, I removed the 'screw', and I recall wondering what its purpose was.  It is to complete the circuit that energizes the pawl assembly.  You can visually watch the pointed end of the screw make contact on the back side.  I threaded the screw into place and applied power and the pawl mechanism picked and responded as it should.  It is a little sticky at times so I intend to add a minor minor drop of oil on pivot points.

Since the engine is working I will be restoring some rolling stock over the next several weeks.  I plan to replace the O gauge dog bone on my layout with a 3 rail OO dog bone.  I have to do some measuring and see about ordering some Gargraves track.

Thanks to Terry for getting this little gem back in service.

[Terry]

I've done the same thing.

Welcome to the 00 club. I have a 7 by 13 area marked off for my 00 layout. I'm doing handlaid track with outside third rail.

[pjdog350]

Terry:

Will the 00 be on the standard or O gauge layout?